Arles & Nîmes, France!

It’s T-1 day until Bill and I head to the Cevennes for a Retreat for Writers. The folks we have been hanging out with in Nîmes the past week (and the past few days with Bill in town) are going too. We will all meet up with about a dozen more folks, most coming in from the USA and Spain tomorrow afternoon. The days are flying by, and I am happy to report that I am taking advantage of the light, the glorious light, from a little after 6 am to 9:15 pm. No wonder why all those impressionist artists loved France - it’s all about the light and how it dances across the sky while they used their artistry in many art forms for the last 152 years! All those impressionist paintings are rich with the light in most every one - from Paris to the South of France! I’m just out walking the medieval towns, and writing a little bit. I did buy some art supplies, but have not dug into them yet…maybe today or the week ahead. I’m itching to paint some flowers!

Yesterday, our gang of mesdames et messieurs took the train early train to Arles. This is what I wrote yesterday, but got super tired and couldn’t keep my eyes open to finish it properly (add photos) and add it to my blog. Here is goes:

May 30

The alarm clocks went off early today around Nîmes! Five travel-mates were headed to Arles, France, catching the 7:13 am train. The quick ride took us to the largest open-air market I’ve ever been to in my life! It was Allison Towe who arrived here in the last day or so, who suggested we hit this Arles Market on Saturday. She had read about the market prior to her arrival, knowing it was big and lively and that we all may enjoy it. I certainly did! Everything from the tomatoes, to the meats, to the straw purses, the local vendors and individual shopkeepers, they really know how to put on a great show. I couldn’t get over the big pans of paella that looked and smelled so good.

Learning a bit of Arles history while there, and a quick google search, I’d say they should know to put on such a great market, located on the outside limits of the old town. This well-known regional market has been held every Wednesday and Saturday since 1584! That is NOT a typo. It has been going strong for close to 500 years! That’s saying something! Heck, that’s a whole lot of generations to pass down the knowledge to keep the market going for centuries. Well done, Arles, France!

Like other neighboring towns, Arles, sitting on the Rhône River, has Roman influences everywhere. Plus, there are treasure troves of Roman monuments, including a smaller coliseum compared to its bigger coliseum cousins in Nîmes or Rome. However, it’s big enough. It is easily in view after passing through the dilapidated gates and ramparts not too far from the train station.

There is also a museum in honor of painter Vincent Van Gogh. The Foundation Vincent Van Gogh Arles is a sleek and modern art museum located down a typical Roman cobblestone skinny street and beige stone apartment buildings with cool windows and doors (I’ve taken lots of photos of them with the intent to post them in future blog posts).

Van Gogh lived about a year in Arles, painting with happy colors and feeling better mentally according to lore of the late 1880s. The museum has rotating exhibits, but a there are a couple of paintings by Van Gogh that are a bit darker than what he painted while living in Arles. I’m thankful we got to see this fascinating Roman village and it’s long held market, the Coliseum, and the Vincent Van Gogh Museum.

“Our table of 5” enjoyed dining together in both Arles and Nîmes. We’ve had great conversations and “getting to know” questions ping ponging around the dining table, laughter included.

Since I arrived last Thursday (May 22), the temperatures have been in the low 90s F. I have not worn a long-sleeve shirt, or a pair of long pants, and never put on the one light jacket I brought with me. Thank goodness I checked the forecast (and believed it) right before leaving the house for the airport, because I ended up removing my jeans, other long-sleeved shirts, and my jean jacket (too heavy). So far, so good with clothes.

May 31 (that’s a wrap on May - that went by fast!).

Not all meals this past week were out in bistros or restaurants. Nope. I bought groceries for breakfast and lunch for most of the time before Bill arrived. However, we did have lunches on days of exploration in neighboring towns. Eating here, I was once told, “there’s never a bad meal in France.” At least that is the case I’ve experienced so far in France this trip.

Tonight is our last night in Nîmes. Our party of 5 is going to a restaurant-the place is still undetermined. I know, though, it will be delightful.

The city of Nîmes seems like it never rests. Over the last few weeks, and certainly my first several days here, everything around here was focused on the Féria Pentecost Festival. It was LOUD! It was FUN! The streets were filled with lots of people drinking and dancing, and all kinds of music filled the air for hours. Nîmes hosted over a million revelers.

This weekend, they got the whole city ready again to host another event: the Triathlon Monumental. They had two races, the Half Ironman distance (70.3), and the Sprint Distance (1.5km swim/40 km bike/10 km run). The swim was on the river with the Pont du Gard above all racers. They biked over the French countryside to Nîmes, and then the final leg was the run around all the ancient monuments.

Bill and I went out to check it out early this morning to grab coffee (Bill), then cheer on some competitors, even yelling in French! Ha! The coolest part was that the athletes got to run around the coliseum (Arena des Nîmes) before heading towards the finish area. Several men dressed as gladiators, with one woman and one child in ancient garb, “guarded” the athletes coming out of the lower level of the coliseum and on to the finish line. Their waiting loved ones in the stands and near the finish.

This whole atmosphere brought tears to my eyes, and I’m not kidding. Maybe it’s not lost on my how far we’ve come in 2000 years as “civilized” humans. When that arena was built, is was for fighting and death of animals and human athletes, er, Gladiators, as entertainment. The games played then, and in the new era, was, and still is now, a spectacle. It can’t be missed. The athletes showed off their skills, but no one got hurt by a bull or a chariot!

PS, I’m hoping to do one last blog from Nîmes tomorrow. We are not sure how the WIFI will be once we get to our destination in the Cevennes (St. Felix Pellier). Based on experience, it’s going to be spotty at best. I’ll still be writing daily, but posting could be challenging. I think I have ideas for fun future stories, many of them through my photos. I’m a sucker for the beautiful flowers, windows, doors, and skinny cobblestone streets in the South of France!

Photos: 1) Arena de Nîmes with a woman runner triathlete and the Gladiators guarding her run to the finish line; 2) our Party of 5* in Arles, 3) Party of 5 at dinner in Nîmes; 4) Bill having fun with AI generated charicatuer images; 5) Original painting of Vincent Van Gogh; 6) Enjoying an Aperol Spritz

*Party of 5 includes L-R in no. 2 photo: me, Katy Dalgleish in white top, Allison Towe in blue top, Dave Vance and Bill.

Viva la France!

Terri